🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.